PDS Makeup: A How-to Guide
** HELPFUL TUTORIAL **
- Michelle Phan’s zombie tut is great in teaching you how to layer and blend for a more cohesive look. However, our PDS palette is a little different, so adjust accordingly
Materials [pictured above]:
- Brushes: powder, blush, and detail
- Face primer [Elf’s tone adjusting green is good because it kills the red in your face]
- Blue or green creme base [You can also use eyeshadow CREAM. I’m using Color Tattoo by EYESTUDIO 24 hr Edgy Emerald]
- Liquid foundation [At least 4 shades lighter than you. I’m using Revlon Colorstay Ivory]
- Makeup sponges
- Translucent powder
- Eyebrow pencil [match it to your character’s brows!]
- Eyeshadow [blacks, greys, reds, pinks]
- Eye and lipliner [blacks, greys, reds like mauve and wine]
- Blue or green eyeliner [for veins]
What’s the Hap?
The point of this makeup is to pull the life out of your complexion, while keeping a realistic dead look. We are naturally red from the blood under our skin. To be more lifeless, we’ve gotta cancel it out with its complementary colour: green. Adding greens and blues, and highlighting with reds and greys is the name of the game.
Don’t go too pale on your foundation! DO NOT buy a white cake palette. This will kill the realistic aspect, and often you’ll end up looking more along the lines of a mime or geisha. Go about 4 shades lighter from your natural complexion. If you’re fair skinned, then it’s safe to buy the palest foundation.
The smallest details bring the whole makeup together. Pay attention to them!
Don’t forget ears and neck! Apply makeup to all areas of exposed skin for the believable look. If you have a pale face but pink ears, the makeup becomes apparent that it’s makeup.
Always always ALWAYS use reference photos of your character. Comparing yourself to the photo will help get details.
- Clean face! Put your hair away [headbands are awesome] and wash your face. Pat dry.
- Primer it up. Squeeze a dab out and go to town on your face and neck. A small amount goes a long way.
- The base-ics. Start off with a green, blue, or teal [if you can find it] cream base. If you can’t find legit cream base, eyeshadow cream is acceptable, but it MUST be a cream. Using a makeup sponge, apply an even amount over the face,ears,and neck, but only enough for a tint. Don’t go overboard! The base will shine through if you do.
- From the foundation. Apply the foundation with a sponge in all exposed areas. Have a friend help you out on the back of your neck and ears, and pay attention to the inner shell of your ears! They’re hard to reach but easy to notice if the fleshy pink is exposed. Also, I know people tend to do even strokes with the sponge, but I find it more effective by stippling it on.
- Keep it even, keep it smooth! Don’t forget areas like your mouth and around your nostrils! And apply evenly.
- Be translucent. With the powder brush, pick up the powder and apply it on top of the foundation. It is best to start from the hairline and brush down for a smoother look.The translucent powder can either be loose or compact, and its point is to give a matte and paler finish.
- Details. Now comes the nitpicky part. A pink or red eyeshadow is a good base for the eyes. Then, build it up with black and greys. Looking at Kieren’s eye areas, they go from reds and greys. This is the time to experiment with various eyeshadows and eye or lipliners to get the right colouring and gradation. When using eye and lipliners, blend the line work with your fingers or a detail brush. Pay attention to your character’s features! if they have an enlarged nose, accentuate yours that follows the same pattern.
- Bold brows. Using an eyebrow pencil in the same shade as your character’s, thicken and accent your brows accordingly, from the thickest part of the brow to the thinnest. It’s ok to go a little above and below the natural brow for thickness! Just make sure to blend it in with the brush attached to the pencil.
- Cheeks that cut glass. Time to accentuate cheekbones! Use the blush brush with a grey or black eyeshadow. Suck in your cheeks [fish face] to find your cheek bones and follow the line down in short downward strokes towards your jaw. Typically cheekbones start from the tragus [little flap of your ear closest to your face, near the opening of the ear canal] almost to the corner of your mouth. However! all cheeks are different.
- Dead mouth. PDS mouths are black, grey with muted mauve around the edges. Prep you mouth with chapstick for a softer happier mouth. Then, using black lip/eyeliner colour in the innermost part of your mouth and feather it out toward the swell of your lips. Switch with a dark wine red and continue feathering out and blend the two together to have a nice gradation from black to a muddled grey and mauve.
- Embrace your veins. Last step! PDS sufferers have very faint but beautiful veins peeking through their skin. In series 1, the veins are more prominent and numerous; In series 2, they are more subtle and scarce. It’s up to you how to do it! Regardless, they are always soft. Using a blue, green, or teal eyeliner pencil, draw squiggled lines sporadically up the neck and on the side of the temples. Always always ALWAYS use a reference! Veins are a little tricky to do alone! When you’ve got them right, go over the veins with the powder brush and translucent powder. Keep blending it on top until the veins look like they sit under the skin in a discreet manner.
- Pinpricks. Got the white out contacts? Pop em in with clean hands, and make sure to hydrate them throughout the day! Don’t know where to get them? This is a great set and for an awesome price.
- Undead and proud. Go and roam about! I hear Roarton is beautiful. Just keep your guard up.
Some recent pictures with the brilliant Lisa (Lisahpg.tumblr.com)
Taken at last week’s MCM Expo in Birmingham so we had to make do with boring backgrounds!
Genie, I'm...I'm gonna miss you.
R.I.P. Robin Williams (July 21, 1951 - August 11, 2014)
lol. I don’k know who the artist is but they are great